Chamonix Mont-Blanc
Chamonix in Haute-Savoie (5-13 July 2021)
How did I end up visiting Chamonix?
Ever since the Pyrenees trip, I frequently browsed the 10adventures.com website. I came across a page specifically on Chamonix as follow:-
https://www.10adventures.com/hikes/chamonix/
The pictures of Lac Blanc convinced me that I must make a trip to Chamonix, and a hike to the lake. The lake with Mont-Blanc peak reflection, reminds me of The Riffelsee (Riffel Lake at Zermatt, Switzerland) with Matterhorn peak reflection. I lost all my photos taken at Zermatt a few years back, so I thought perhaps it is time for new memory.
After a few days rest in the hostel (after returning from south of France road trip with 4 friends), I hit the road again. This time, all alone with full flexibility.
The trip highlights
On the 5 July, I started my trip at 9am. It was a 6 hours drive from my campus, a distance of 580km to my first stop, i.e. a winter ski resort apartment in Flaine, Auvergne-Rhone-Alpes. The region is a popular ski town. The tiny apartment that can fit 3 persons comes with small kitchenette, and its off-peak price (88Euro for 3 nights) was the main reason I have opted for this apartment. I stopped at grocery supermarket and bought some food supply when I was on my way to the apartment.
Even though the apartment is not in Chamonix town, the surrounding scenery was breath-taking.
The area was very peaceful and quiet, as there were not many visitors around.
On the second day, I decided to drive to Les Autannes chairlift centre, to have a short hike at Col De Balme. I paid 120 euro for a 7 days pass, didn't know that I could get a good 20% discount if purchase it online the night before.
The hike (or rather a walk) at Col de Balme is one of the easiest I have ever done. First I took a cable car to the Charamillon mid-station, then changed to chairlift. The 1.5hours short walk offered some spectacular views of Mont-Blanc mountain range and the Chamonix valley.
After the short hike, I headed to Le Fayet, to take a ride on Tramway du Mont Blanc. The old tram left from Le Fayet at 580m elevation to Nid D'Aigle at 2372m elevation.
There are 3 old trams servicing this route. These trams each carries a young girl's name, Anne, Jeanne, and Marie.
I spent the third day hiking up Le Belvedere d'Aujon near the apartment. It was a 2 hours slow hike up. Half way through, it started to drizzle. A few huts there serve well as a shelter during the rain.
The rock formation with many big hollow passages and cracks called for extra caution while hiking up and down the mountain. The view from the top was amazing.
On day 4, It was time to take a ride on the cable car (Telepherique) to Aiguille du Midi. This is the highest cable car in France. Aiguille du Midi is a must visit place for a trip in Chamonix. Due to the unfavorable weather, the Mont Blanc Panoramic cable car tour that connects Aiguille du Midi (France) with Pointe Helbronner (Italy) was suspended.
After coming down to the cable car center at Chamonix and a taking a late lunch, I continued walking to the Chamonix cogwheel train station, to board the little red train to Montenvers station. This station at 1913m elevation is the closest stop to the famous Mer de Glace. True enough, with the marking of glacier of different years, I can clearly see the effect of climate change over time.
From the Montenvers station, I walked down the path and stair case to the ice cave, a cave under multiple layers of thick glacier.
Day 5 and Day 6 the most awaited Lac Blanc hike.
https://www.10adventures.com/hikes/chamonix/lac-blanc/
The Lac Blanc hike is possibly the most popular hike in Chamonix. After having my lunch at an Asian restaurant near the Aiguille du Midi telepherique station, I headed to Station of telecabine de la Fregere, to ride a cable car to the mid-station.
The sceneries along the trail were majestic. The plants, the river stream, and the mountain range, combine to offer unreal sights. During my 2.5 hours hike from the La Flégère mid-station, I have encountered several Ibeks and Marmots too. These are the common wild animals living at this mountain range.
Half way to the refuge and Lac Blanc, from a distance, I have seen 2 young Ibeks showing their dominance to each other. The horns fight lasted for quite a while before both of them decided to walk away.
After reaching the refuge at Lac Blanc, I quickly checked in and dropped my backpack there. It was near evening by then, and I decided to descend to Lac de Cheserys where hikers put up their tents there for bivouac. A point to note, Lac Blanc area is a private property, and no Bivouac is allowed around the Lac Blanc area. Hence, most hikers would make it to Lac de Cheserys for Bivouac. The trail, though short, was very challenging, as some part of the sloppy trail was covered in snow. The walking sticks have helped me descending safely to the Lac. After a short stay to meet up with a friend, I ascended back to the refuge. I decided to try a different path this time.
At one point, I was trapped at a big rock, trying to figure out which way to take, as most of the clear paths were either too sloppy to ascend, or covered in slippery snow. At that point, the owner of the mountain walked effortlessly towards me. A big IBEK showed me how easily he can ascend the slope. Recalling the fighting scene of two young Ibeks, I know I must not trigger this seemingly Alpha Ibek.
Finally, after few tries, I manage to ascend through the snowy slope, and made my way back to the refuge. The light in the room was turned off early, as there are always some Mont-Blanc-Tour (MBT) hikers taking one night rest in the room. They need a good rest way more than casual hikers like me.
The first news that I received in the morning, was water supply interruption at the refuge. There was no water supply to the toilet and the bathroom. The news didn't come as a surprise, knowing that the refuge was nearly 2000m high up the sea level. I can still live well taking some water from the lake for essential cleaning and use.
I went exploring the mountains near the refuge. That was when I came across few marmots.
The staff of the Refuge gave me permission to take a shower in the lake. Even though permission was given, not many people went ahead. Coming from tropical country, I am very get used to taking shower, at least once a day. With the permission, I decided to jump in. It is probably a once in a lifetime experience to bath in Lac Blanc.
After coming down from Lac Blanc, I returned to Chamonix town, and checked in to Mont Blanc Lodge (through booking.com) at the middle of the town. For a two night stays in a room with 2 single beds, and window view overseeing Mont Blanc, I only paid 113Euro.
Day 7 (11 July) With 1 free and easy day, I decided to make a trip to Lac Vert (the Green lake). There is a way to drive all the way to the lake side, and park near the restaurant. However, I opted for a short hike. I parked my car at Plaine-Joux and did a short yet pleasant hike cross the wood to reach the lake. The round trip is about 3.1km only. The lake is small, tranquil and the water is crystal clear. I went around the lake on my own pace and snapped some photos at different spots. There were people fishing there, and swimming is not allowed.
Day 8 It was time to go. Finally, it was time to return to the campus. On my way, I detour to stop at Les Gorges de La Diosaz (Servoz).
From the Gorges, I furthered my trip to Annecy Lake to have lunch there.
From the lake, it took another 25 minutes to drive to Castle of Menthon-Saint-Bernard, one of the landmark in the region.
After the short Chateau tour, it was finally time to head back to Campus, without further detour.
My transports, accommodation, and F&B
Transport - I rented a car for long term lease of 1 month. It was quite a good deal. Even when the rental was cheap, I paid quite a lot for toll charges.
MontBlancResort 7 days Ski/cable car pass - 120 Euro
Accommodation -
3 night stay (5-8 July) at 959 Route des Servages Résidence Capella appartement 116, Arâches-la-Frasse, Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes 74300, France - 88 Euro
1 night stay (8 July) at 176 Route du Bois Rond, Les Houches, Rhône-Alpes 74310, France - 60 Euro
2 night stay (10-12 July) at Mont Blanc lodge 90 Rue des Allobroges, 74400 France - 113 Euro
F&B - self prepared the first 4 days. And various restaurants the remaining days. Estimated 180 Euro
My 3 Plus and 2 Minus:-
3 things I like about this trip:
- Swimming in the icy water of Lac Blanc (once in a life time experience), with permission from Refuge staff, due to water supply interruption at Refuge
- Col de Balme hike, a very pleasant walk, with only 81m elevation gain.
- Lac Blanc hike: The Lac Blanc trail is amazing, and it is family friendly. Won’t forget the experience of having wild Ibek walking close to me when I was trapped at a slope finding my way back to Refuge in the evening
2 thing I would do differently if I can turn back the clock:
- Buy the Multi day lift pass from the official website at least 1 day in advance to enjoy 20% discount https://www.montblancnaturalresort.com/en/montblanc-multipass#planPage_priceTable
- Check out the weather, and go for Panaromic Mont Blanc cable car trip (Journey between France « Aiguille du Midi » and Italy« Pointe Helbronner - Skyway ».)
Surprise learning of the trip
Riffelsee with reflection of Matterhorn in Zermatt is stunning. LacBlanc with reflection of MontBlanc in Chamonix is equally stunning too. The point: We can cry over the lost photos, or we can create new memories, taking new photos, and the choice is entirely our own.