Azores Sao Miguel

Azores Sao Miguel (31 Aug – 7 Sept)

How did I end up visiting Azores Sao Miguel?

Sao Miguel is the largest of the 9 islands in Azores archipelago, a Portugal autonomous region, located at mid-Atlantic. Island, mountain, great nature landscape, plenty of hiking, these all fit my checklist. I was introduced to Azores by Mike, an MBA friend from the States. The original idea is to have a small group of 3-4 people visiting Azores Sao Miguel for a duration of 7 days. It was meant to be a less hectic, free and easy trip. As it was my first time to Azores, I bought the return ticket of Paris-Ponta Delgada (Sao Miguel)-Paris in advance, trying to avoid the last-minute expensive flight ticket. A room for 3 (at about the same price of room for 1) and a car were prebooked too. As it got closer to the departure date, Mike’s plan was disrupted by his brother’s visit to Paris. Finally, the trip turned out to be a Solo Adventure!

The trip highlights

I did quite extensive research before flying to Sao Miguel. Of all the websites, I found this best suit my need.

 https://www.geekyexplorer.com/sao-miguel-island-in-4-days/

Following mostly the recommendation on the website, I have tried to split Sao Miguel island into 3 parts, i.e. the central, the east and the west. Having a car with me means a total freedom and a lot of flexibility. I enjoyed driving on the island, sometimes repeating the same scenic routes. The 7 days of free and easy trip also meant that I have plenty of time at night to write down what I have done for the day. 

Day 1 Arrived at Ponta Delgada airport. Waited for about 40 minutes for ANC shuttle van to pick me up and sent me to ANC car centre. 

Taxi fare from the airport

Picked up the Renault Twingo basic. Unfortunately, the air-condition was not working. Drove back to the centre and demand to replace. They proposed to swap to another Twingo, which the air-condition not working too. They then proposed replacement with VW Up on the next day 0900hrs. Drove back to Airbnb. Parked the car at the nearby carpark. There is a free public car park at a walking distance from the Airbnb hostel. Took my dinner at Casa de Pasto Tavares, local cuisine. I ordered Bife de Albacora, i.e. grilled Tuna with rice and potato, and one small beer Imperial Mesa. It was cheap, 9 euro + 1.30 euro. 

Day 2 It was forecasted to be a gloomy and rainy day. I changed the plan, as I want to keep western Sao Miguel for sunny day. Drove to ANC and waited for about 40 minutes before I got the replacement car. Then decided to drive to Lagoa do Fago at Central Sao Miguel. Drove to Pico Barrosa, but the rain was too heavy. So, another change of plan. Drove to Lagos das Furnas. On the way there, detour to Villa Franca do Compo, went to the super market. Then proceed to Lagos das Furnas. Parked there, and walked along the lake and to the Conservation and Monitoring center. Bought ticket 2.40 for a visit to the small rehabilitation exhibition center. Next, drove to the Furnas. Entry 3Euro. Many nearby restaurants have their stew meat cooked at the Furnas area. 

Right after, I drove to Tony’s restaurant, ordered Furnas Stew (mix of various meat, rice and potato), a beer, bread, butter, and soup of the day. Price was decent. A stew, a soup, bread, butter, and a small beer. Total was 19.05. It was a Heavy lunch. Then drove to Faial da Terra. And from there, try to figure out how to go to the waterfall which is recommended by geeky explorer. After all, I really shouldn’t trust Google and Waze when it comes to water fall. After walked up and down for a total distance of 1.5km, I was still unable to locate the entrance to the water fall. Finally decided to take a risk, parked my car at a place where I found many cars at the roadside. Then just walked down the muddy path where I saw a 4x4 coming out earlier with truck load of tourist. I walked with a couple from Porto. After close to an hour plus walk, finally arrived at the water fall. (Sanguiho – salto do Prego water fall). Didn’t go to Terra Nostra Park and Poca Dona. Drove to Nordeste district and stopped at a few Mirodouro (viewpoints) for the sunset. 

Day 3 Central Sao Miguel. In the early morning, drove to Lagoa do Fago. Did the hike from the view point descending to the lake shore. Foggy, sunny, gloomy at different spots, all in one hike. Walked along the lakeshore.

From Lagoa do Fago, proceed to the Salto do Prego waterfall. I supposed this is one of the Instagram famous place.

That was not all. In the evening, drove to the Inferno viewpoint / Canario lake view point. Walked up to the view point and waited for sunset. The view was amazing, but the fact that I came down very late, was quite eerie. No one else left at the trail. Inferno viewpoint

Day 4 The most awaited one, western of the Sao Miguel. Early morning, drove to the Vista Dei view point, right in front of the abandoned hotel. But the view wasn’t that fascinating, likely because of the time. Then further drove to Miardouro do Cerrado das Feira. Then drove to the Sete Cidades, further drove inward, and turned back. An unlucky day, because I forgot my wallet and left it at the airBnb. But that didn’t deter me. Biscuit for the lunch. From the Sete Cidades, drove back to the Vista Dei viewpoint.

Next – back to the Canario lake. But before that, went for a Sera Devassa trail, supposingly 4.7km, but I did longer due to taking some wrong turns.

After that, proceeded to Ferraria. Took a warm shower in the natural pool. 

Then move on to the beach of Mosterios. 

After good shower at AirBnb, went to Farol restaurant for dinner. About 17, with beer, local cheese, bread, and grill squid as main dish.

Day 5 Woke up and lazed around. Went to self service laundry. Washing 4euro, drying 1.5euro. Then Parque Atlantico for a brunch. Ate at Wok to Walk. Bought take away lunch from Mc.D. Drove to Villa Franca do Compo again. A boat return ticket costs only 8 euro. (make sure you look for the official boat tour counter, a small booth). Took a 12pm boat to the Islet. Came back using 4pm boat. 

Drove up to the Chapel. There was a wedding ceremony there.

 Then decided to check out the Farol at Ponta Garca. Weather wasn’t nice, cloudy. Had my dinner at Scorpion Cafe. The portion was huge, yet the price was cheap. Decided to come back and call it a night.

Day 6 It is Sunday. Started the morning walking at the downtown of Ponta Delgada. Covered Fort Sao Bras, then the famous city gate arch. 

Thought of finding out the goods at the Market, unfortunately found out that it is close on Sunday at arrival. Walked back to the Hostel, and went over to Parque Atlantico to have brunch again. This time, the brunch was the value 5 for 5 KFC box. After the brunch, drove to Nordeste region, with the hope to find the Farol do Arnel. 

Can’t help but to stop at the Miradouro Santa Iria. The view there is majestic. 

Then, to Ribeira dos Caldeiroes. However, got it wrong again, and ended up at the parking lot where a long trail starts. I didn’t do the long trail, never plan, and too risky. Finally, figured out a way to the water fall area. 

Then drove to Ponta do Arnel. The old guard light house (Farol). Walked down. It is the wisest decision. (on my way back, a few cars had problem driving up the slope) Spent some time doing nothing but sat at high point overlooking people fishing, and young people drinking beers and listening to music. 

After the Farol de arnel, went to Ribeira Grande. The wave was huge there. Stopped by for Dinner at a local restaurant. Pork chop, decent price.  Back to Hostel. Met up with 2 german students (Toby and Marven). Chit chat, and offered them a drive the next day if they would like to head to hot spring. 

Day 7 Started at 9. Drove to Caldeira Velha. Upon arrival, found out that we need to prebook online, and only 1 ticket is available at the counter. Decided to drive to Furnas area. There are 2 famous hot spring there. Decided to try , It was 6 euro per entry. Well spent! . Back to the hostel after the lunch to chill and relax. Went to the same shop on first day to have dinner. This time I ordered a grill octopus. Yeah, it is Octopus, not squid. It is huge!!!! Together with the bread and the local cheese, the bil was only 17 euro, where the octopus rice and potato costs 13 euro (cheap indeed). 

The final Night, went over to Bar Do Phi to have Cocktail. This bar serves very affordable cocktail, 4euro each.

Day 8 Time to bid farewell to Azores. Returned the car, and sayonara. Hope to see you again.

My transports, accommodation, and F&B

My 3 Plus and 2 Minus:-

3 things I like about this trip:

1. Photography at several viewpoints, with Miradouro Santa Iria, Inferno viewpoint and Salto do Prego water fall top the list
2. Snorkelling at the islet of Villa Franca do Compo (Strongly recommended); hot spring at Poca da D. Beija, swimming at Salto do Prego water fall. 
3. Hiking along 2 main lakes scenic trails, i.e. Sete Cidades and Lagoa du Fago

2 thing I would do differently if I can turn back the clock: 

1. Include additional 1 island in the ticket booking. I only found out later that the official website of Azores airline allows multi stop booking. https://www.azoresairlines.pt/en4. 
2. Book the car a bit earlier, and explore several options. The car rental made up the biggest chunk of the trip expenses. In future, will include this website in the search https://www.ilhaverde.com/ 

Surprise learning from the trip

"If you truly love nature you will find beauty everywhere" - by Vincent Van Gosh... 

And that includes in the middle of Atlantic Ocean